Composting
at home
Why
compost?
-
Adds
organic matter to soil
-
Speeds
up natural processes of decomposition
-
Kills
weed seeds, tubers, runners & corms
-
Kills
pathogens, bacteria, fungi/moulds
-
Turns
garden/household waste into a useful product
-
Decreases
landfill
-
Cheaper
than dumping
Methods
Geddy
bins- daily food scraps bottomless bin
Larger
scale - Three areas 1m x 1m turned once a week
use one compost then start another. Keep compost moist.
The
Heap
Start
with a fibrous layer (sticks or leaves). Best use elderberry, Chinese
gooseberry, sunflower, banana grass, unmulched prunings etc.
Wet
each few layers thoroughly!
Then
layer weeds, grass, straw, mulch, animal manures, food scraps and old
compost to activate bacteria.
Sprinkle
lime onto the more acidic layers, dolomite on food scraps and sulphur on
weeds and grass.
Dynamic
accumulators are plants that pull many minerals and store them in their leaves
like comfrey, borage, nasturtiums, yarrow and tansy which adds potassium. They
are all compost activators, speeding up the breaking down process. They can
be made into a liquid tea by soaking in water until leaves are well rotten
and the smell is minimal. A dilution can be made in a watering can and used
as a
fertilizer added to compost or irrigation systems.
Rock
dust also helps mineralise and speed up the compost process, the best blend is
diorite, granite and boron.
Initially
the compost will reach high temperatures then start to cool after 5 days or
so. Then turn and wet thoroughly before covering with a layer of straw and
let stand for another 5-7 days. Repeat the process.
Airflow is vital to
produce sweet smelling, usable compost as this feeds the “good” aerobic
bacteria. If the compost becomes anaerobic by showing signs of sliminess and
a sour smell, turn it well and add plenty of dolomite, comfrey and a bit of
straw.
By Serina Ablett
